Ubud just us two

A truck pulls up, the tailgate is undone and out jump about 100 ducks. They head straight for the recently harvested rice paddy and start eating - duck heaven. Their minder has a stick with a white flag on top, and every night they'll follow that stick to a shelter he's set up in a corner of the field. The field gets fertilized, the weeds and bugs get eaten and the ducks get fattened for market.
We're hanging out with Ian's sister who knows the best places to buy everything after living here for 3 months-we're whipping through the shopping list.
There's a concert happening on the soccer field tonight. The dignitaries fancy chairs are set up under a white gazebo, the stage lighting is on, the sound check is done, the gamelan has warmed up, just waiting for the band and an audience. Apparently it's an anti-drug promo. We'll hear it from our room so might as well sit here in comfort and listen.

Nusa Lembongan

Omg it's more of the same but better on this pretty island resort. We have 2 honeymoon suites, 1 sunset room and a bungalow with hammock between the 8 of us. The tiny bright-blue-tiled pool is surrounded by palms, orchids, hibiscus and frangipani. It and the cafe look over a beautiful white sandy bay full of traditional boats. Our 3 night package includes breakfast, afternoon tea with cake (banana pancakes/fritters actually but who's quibbling), fruit bowl, an island tour, one dinner, a snorkelling trip and a massage. Wow.
As well as the blind man (amazing how he notices the bikini babes) and the much improved cripple, we now have a big wave dumpee who is a bit stiff after chest-diving into the beach. We have several mishaps getting on and off the wildly rocking boats - the (luckily stopped) propeller grabs a bit of leg, the sandy beach tries to suck a couple of bodies in, the pocketknife slips when trying to free a tied up life jacket (zips? buckles? don't be stupid!), and there are plenty of sprawls on the water's edge. The tour directors get cross and swear and shout and we all laugh so much we pee our pants!! The fish we see while snorkelling are amazing, especially for the brave one who's never dared enter the deep before. The bucket lists are getting a few ticks....
Unfortunately this the last place we are all together and almost the end of the hol for most :-(.
We've had a ball.

Candi Dasa

Now this really is a tropical paradise. We sit on the beach lounges overlooking the pounding ocean. We eat. We drink. We read. We swim in the pool. We sleep. Are we bored yet?
Almost. Do we care?? Hell no!!
Ian takes the walkers for a walk through little villages followed by coffee and black forest cake at a German bakery. Kay has a massage. Les and Maxine have a massage at a picturesque nearby beach. Ben gets dumped by a cranky wave. We listen to a man playing a bamboo xylophone. We eat and drink some more. We visit a chocolate factory that should be inhabited by smurfs and is run by an american man who is living the dream. We finish this 5 day stay with a huge and delicious Balinese satay dinner, costs us a truly exorbitant $20 each.
Tomorrow we meet b&b and head to an island for more of the same....

Ubud

Kay's just jived down the street with a group of western women, sharing earphones, and singing to the funky beat - the locals can't quite believe what they're seeing but all are laughing...!
We had another separation of the sexes yesterday. The boys went rafting and careened down rapids past high jungly cliffs, occasionally falling out for a swim. Amazing scenery.
The girls brushed up their cooking skills and chopped and ground their way to a delicious feast. Mmmm. The class included a trip to the local market where some intrepid souls tried a yummy, healthy, slippery, jellylike drink. There was food of all types for sale, fresh produce and takeaway specialties - the local maccas?? Also clothes, spices, kitchen goods and anything else you might want. We also learnt more about the local culture and offerings.
Then it was off to visit a local birthing centre with Kays friend Sara. We had baby clothes and specs to donate, which were greatfully received. Unfortunately there were no little babies to goo over.
Some of us had pizza cravings for dinner, and the others were very satisfied with our exquisitely presented, delicious but small and expensive servings - well, they cost $7 each for fresh tuna and stirfry veg!

Ubud- The saga of the foot

Kays foot is still sore after the day 3 fish pond slip. I'm trying to limit walking but with not much success.....
Ring the local medical clinic and state that the international clinic -BIMC - suggested re xray if no improvement. "better go to hospital" is the reply. It's 20 mins drive to Mas, past a huge procession heading for the local temple. Straight into A&E, straight into xray, chat at desk with dr and nurses, specialist checks xray, no break. Inflammation only. Take this antiinflam, keep foot flat, walk only little bit. Same same advice (for $36) as BIMC $170!! Of course the equipment was older and the English less but reassuring anyway.
So off to the market for a walking stick, which has a lovely smiley buddha head for a handle, and I'll try to stick to motor bike rather than feet at our next stop Candi Dasa.

Ubud

Ooh, Ubud, another nice place to be. Here we are in a small family run hotel with 15 rooms and beautiful pool and gardens. K&I are going basic for $30 night including breakfast, the others are lashing out with $55 luxury.
It was a 3 hour 36km drive here, thankfully with room to move in a 12 seater bus for the 6 of us (B&B are staying in Seminyak while we trip around) We stopped at an amazing silver factory and workshop then a batik workshop. Such intricate work at both places.
K&I visit Ian's sister who's been living here for 3 months, in a beautiful little house in the rice paddies. She is glowing with health and happiness and loving her garden and pool. Her plan is to make it permanent ...
Today we've been on our bike ride. First stop was a plantation where we tasted a variety of teas and coffees including the so-called poo-poo coffee, the beans are eaten by a ?ferret, then excreted cleaned and processed. Hmm. Next is breakfast overlooking a volcano and lake, spectacular scenery.
Finally the main event. 3 girls take the van option and the rest of us choose our bikes. We whoop and holler as we go downhill, mash the gears and puff as we go up. It's about 25 km with only a couple of lung and leg busting hills. Kids race out for highfives, dogs and chooks lazily get out of our way and there are huge grins all round. Bob is well looked after with a fore and aft escort and does it with ease. So does a certain man who hasn't been near a bike for 40 years! Might be a new candidate for Ian's cycling group? There is a nasty smell as we get in the bus. There are no plastic bags here to scoop the poop and one of us has stepped in it. Who??? Wet ones and citrus airfresh save the day.
The tour concludes with a truly delicious banquet of Balinese food and an informative lesson on Balinese family life - it's the first born boy's duty to live in the family home with his family and take care of the parents, amongst other things.
Full as a goog we head for home to a bintang and swim.

Seminyak

Same same but different. Selamat ulang tahun Bobby (happy birthday, 74!). Walking, swimming, then we hit the spa. Manicure, pedicure, facial, massage, skin scrub etc. Costs about $10 hour for whatever so it's important we help the local economy.
Then it's off for the birthday dinner. We squish the 8 of us into 7 seats, this is bonding at it's best but nicer than taking 2 cars as we should. It's the 4pm traffic jam so we slowly head north. Past huge hotels and tiny houses, past glass fronted shops and shacks selling coke bottles full of petrol, past western restaurants and kaki lima (literally 5 legs, a man pushing a 3 legged cart from which he serves his speciality of maybe sate or noodle soup). In between all the intermingled buildings are rice paddies and cows grazing, not a bit of land is wasted. The road is narrow but there are trucks and buses and hundreds of motorbikes, often carrying mum dad and 2 or 3 kids.
Finally we arrive at Echo Beach. There are a few market stalls and cafes set up on the beachfront and of course sellers wandering along with goods piled on their heads and up their arms. We have a drink or 2 to toast the birthday boy, eat beautiful fresh seafood and soak up the serenity.
Kay has requested a birthday cake and out it comes complete with candle and serenading staff. Shame there's only one slice...! Tidak apa apa, guess that's just another Bali miscommunication and we soon order more dessert for us all. Bob is pretty chuffed with his night out, and even more so when we hand over his gift - a voucher for a day out with us all next week, including a downhill bike ride. Watch out Bali!!

Seminyak

Friday is beach time then we visit the orphanage where Kay will volunteer in July. It's in a edge of rural area on the outskirts of Denpasar. About 50 kids live there from baby to almost adult, and about 10 staff. All are happy and laughing. There's a big open kitchen, 4 bunkrooms, reading room, huge computer/art/ music/teaching room, veg garden, soccer space, play equipment ....
The girls take some kids shopping to a gigantic supermarket, the boys stay and make friends with the help of a bag of lollies.
$200 later we return with piles of fresh food and choco biscuits for a treat. It's sobering to see just how little they all have compared to us, but how happy they all are. Our bags of donated
clothes are handed over and thankfully received. Lots of waves and highfives and goodbyesthen we head home to our luxury hotels- such a contrast.

Seminyak

The days are forming a pattern -
Meet at breakfast and graze our way round the buffet.
Meet at the lobby - b&b are staying next door.
Girls go shopping, plenty of opportunity here. The clothes! The homewares! We are hyperventilating.
Boys go to the beach. The waves! The girlies! They are salivating.
Meet at 5 for beer and peanuts on the beach. More shopping??
Go somewhere close for dinner.
Eat cheap and delicious food.
Drink cheap and delicious and exotic cocktails.
Laugh at the spelling on the menus, our faces when the chilli hits the back of the throat, the sights around us and anything else that tickles our fancy.
Singalong and dance with the amazing guitarists.
Bed at 9.....

Seminyak

The Bali 8 are finally together. Kay and Ian have been joined by Marg and Les (came with us last year), Maxine and Ben (Bali virgins), Bernie and Bob (surfies and Bali lovers from way back), all are friends from Torquay. We're at Seminyak where the beautiful people hang out - think amazing hotels and restaurants close by a surf beach that goes for miles. We sit on the beach in beanbags under colourful umbrellas and watch the sunset as we down a $2 beer. There's a constant parade of locals selling sarongs, kites, watches, jewellery etc, but they're not too insistant and soon wander on. Dinner is close by as Kay is still hobbling (a trip to the very efficient hospital confirms no break) and Bob can't see too well at night. The food is delicious with lots of variety from westernish to veryspicy, and at $10-20 a couple no one is complaining, despite needing torches to read the menu! A $1.10 magnum is a good dessert. Jealous yet?!

Day 4 Monday Lipah

Kay is nursing a sore shoulder and foot after a spectacular slip in a fish pond last night - honestly no alcohol involved!
Hitched a ride on a motorbike to the big day. Hundreds of people are crowded in the tiny home compound of dad Jony, mum Made, 15year old daughter Putu and 9 year old son Resa-both kids are having their teeth filed today. There are decorations and a big tarp for shade, a gamelan orchestra playing, an ornate altar piled high with offerings including a roast pig (sorry Neeson), clothes, sarongs and plenty of food. There are a few priests dressed in white dancing about and about 8 kids from 8-17 looking gorgeous in their ceromonial clothes but just a bit nervous. There's a bed piled with cushions and it's there that it all happens. One at a time they climb up and are covered with sarongs. There are a couple of helpers with comforting hands, mum and dad are hovering and they open their mouth. In goes a chunk of something to keep their teeth apart, in goes the priest's fingers and in goes the file. Apparently it's uncomfortable rather than painful... Mum checks that it's ok, the kid checks it's ok - if not its down for more. Finally everyone is happy, there's a blessing and at last a roll of some sort of numbing leaf to bite on.
Food follows - same same but different. We as honored guests share a communal plate with close family and make surprisingly little mess eating with our fingers, using our right hand only of course (you can guess what the left hand is for in a culture that doesn't use toilet paper).
Later it's down to the beach for more ceremonies, up to the temple for more ceremonies then back to the house for more food same same. Dancing and yet more food completes the day.
There are other invited westerners and a few that just wandered past at the right time. It's a fascinating experience seeing other cultures at work. As our friend Jony pointed out we spend our money on holidays and they spend it on ceremonies despite having to go into debt.

Day 3, Sunday Lipah

What did we do before iPods and free wifi? Was it only last year we sweated in Internet cafes?
We're now in Lipah on the east coast near Amed. The whole area is fishing villages which have numbers of hotels from basic to fancy, they are mainly populated by europeans, so quiet at the moment. Our mid-range hotel costs about $60 night including
(unnecessary in retrospect!) breakfast and dinner. Our room is metres from the beach and amazing fish and coral are only 20m out for great snorkeling.
Yesterday's drive here from Sanur took about 3 hours through lots of villages and beautiful countryside. We stopped for lunch at Kasumba- YUM. Fish sate, veg, sambal, soup, peanuts and rice plus a tankard of tea for $2.50 each.
Today is party day for our sponsor teenager's tooth filing, so we've eaten at her family's house - pork and fish sate, urab (spicy veg salad), Lawar (spicy pig blood concoction) and rice all eaten with our fingers. Later there's coffee, fruit and rice cakes and after dinner dancing and fiery palm wine. Thankfully we misses the 2am pig slaughter but we watched pig no 3 being cut up -an interesting anatomical exercise.
We handed over some clothes -good Aussie surfwear for mum,dad and the 2 kids, coffee sugar and rice, and an envelope of cash. About 400 family and friends are expected to attend during the 2 day ceremony for 8 adolescents, so an expensive time.

We're here...

Ahhh. Woke to the sound of birds cooing and squawking, and trickling water. There's a gentle cool breeze and our breakfast of bali kopi, fresh crushed mixed juice, sliced fruit and vegie omelet is delicious.
A few oopsies on the way - Kay left her carry on bag at security screening and had to trek back from the other end of the airport to get it, and Ian put his visa sticker in his passport instead of handing it over to the very official official, NOT happy! May not get out of the country!! (or so he was threatened!)

Time to go to Bali....

Kay and Ian head off this arvo and will be joined next Tuesday by 6 friends, for 3 weeks fun in the sun. Kay then stays on for 4 weeks volunteering in a Denpasar orphananage. The bags are packed - 7kg each of personal stuff, and 45kg of things to donate. This includes used specs and baby clothes for the Ubud birthing centre and eye clinic, kids clothes,books and resources for the orphanage, clothes for our sponsor girl and her family, and a bag of goodies for our driver's little kids.
A big thank you to everyone who has donated cash and goods, and helped with fundraising.