Kyoto

It's back on the fast and quiet shinkasen - bullet train - to freezing cold Kyoto for 3 nights. First tour is around the geiko district at night, where we learn how talented they are. Their extraordinary training continues as long as they work - the oldest is 82 - it's a vocation not just a job. We see two at a performance elsewhere

A bike tour is on the next day, 25km to temples and shrines, where 2 weddings are taking place

I love the fixers who ensure every pleat is straight for the waiting photographers

 

The bung knee holds up well, even after many stairs and lots of walking. 

We visit beautiful gardens and sights. Kyoto encourages kimono wearing, with lots of rental places, and discounts for those who are traditionally dressed

Kinkakuji - Golden Pavilion

Ryoanji, with its famous zen raked gravel paths and beautiful gardens, and spring flowers just beginning to appear

Arashiyama bamboo grove

The unusual sight of a female rickshaw puller

 

The small but stunning  Murin-an

We come across a festival, with huge ikebana, all illuminated when we return at night

And who can pass up a free photo op?!

 

The bus system is great: $6 for an all day ticket, electronic boards showing destination and next stop in Japanese then English, and white gloves and miked up drivers

Tokyo and Hakone

In Tokyo we meet with 4 people we hosted in Bendigo 15 years ago - there to learn English and bike training, how good it is to see them again! Masa meets us at the bus stop then finds our Airbnb and takes us sightseeing, the others appear at the izekaya - bar/restaurant - and order lots of delicious food to share

We have a free guide for the next day, so again it's  great to have a local  show us some sights, explain a lot of culture and get us around on the crazy and crowded subway. Jess and Chris go home from here. 

Then to Hakone for a night at a small guesthouse, where we don't see Mt Fuji because of cloud, don't ride the ropeway because of volcanic activity, but have great fun anyway on train, train, cable car, boat, bus.  It's cold and snows overnight nearby…

We stop at a beautiful onsen on the way home, with outdoor hot pools filled with all ages and shapes of (gender segregated) bods. Very relaxing. 

Japan - Nozawa Onsen 1 - 8 March

This is the oldest ski village in Japan, and is beautiful. It's quiet - no car horns are used - and full of friendly people who appreciate our pathetic attempts at the language! 

There are a few very early signs of Spring, but the trees are still in protective tepees - the usual 4m of snow would squash them… 

Lots of shortcut foot tracks to escape those quiet cars

And a 90* onsen to cook the veg or eggs

Great skiing the first day, with 60cm of fresh snow

Look very closely and son Neeson is airborne

But then bad news for Kay - I fall on the last run of the first day, hurt my knee, so no more skiing this year. Luckily there's a great physio located at our hotel!

 With daughter Jess and her husband Chris

The ski area is 20 minutes from the village: by chairlift,

moving walkway,

or gondola to get higher up

 The hotel onsen is easy - scrub up and rinse off, then step into the 38-40* hot water and relax

 And the toilets pure luxury with heated seats and warm water washes, even in the huts dotted around the ski slopes!

There's a winter festival with fire twirlers,

torch parade, free sake then fireworks

Food is good, despite various dietary needs. This vegan, gluten free feast for $20 each was so delicious we went twice

We have a cosy room for 5, on this first family holiday for 16 years… Neeson will stay here another night or two, then continue on his travels.