Gili T CE

Guess what, we know someone here too... Norah and her brother Abdullah remember us (or more likely Ian's parents Bob and Joan) from way back when. We are proudly introduced to family and friends, and yesterday go on a day trip to visit Norah's house in Mataram. We are the only foreigners on the public boat, in the karaoke enhanced restaurant and at the market, and once again scare small children. 

$15 buys a feast for 5

 

Norah's brother

Mataram market

 

Loaded boat trip back to the island

Today is much more relaxing: a slow ride/push through sand around this tiny island, massage, several swims, read on a beach beanbag then dinner watching sunset and fire twirlers. 

Gili Trawangan 27 June - 1 July

Gili T is a tiny island off the coast of Lombok, 1st discovered by travellers (and Ian's parents!) in the 80's. We came here when kids were 4 and 7, and very popular little blonde beauties they were to the locals. Back then there were only a few shacks for  accommodation and food, some showing movies at night, and incredible snorkelling. Now there are beds for 5000, 7 ATM, and a thriving tourism industry. The fish and coral haven't grown at the same rate, but the dive shops are ensuring that regeneration and conservation is happening. Transport is by horse and cart, there are no motorbikes or dogs to ruin the serenity, and goods are delivered by people or horse power. 

Unloading the boat

Does it get much better?

Ian and his sister Heather

Handcart ready to go

And who thought eggs were fragile?!

PS Lipah

EWe have assisted with 15 yo Putu's school fees for the last few years, and she has just now got into a middle school of her choice, with a goal of studying nursing. It means living away during the week, but she will share with a friend and is happy about this. An American couple is also helping and will buy her a laptop. Wow. So we decided to buy 10 yo brother Resa a bike. BIG WOW! Was first overwhelmed and unsure, but soon had a huge grin. Happily accepted mum Made's decision that it must be blessed first, and that night sat solemnly and received his blessing from her, then blessed his bike.  He waited for us to wake up the next morning before riding it, even bigger wow. Very humbling moment of cultural exchange....

Dodgy nighttime photo but 2 offerings adorn his bike. 

Yes he's wearing his ripcurl rashie and has done since we gave it to him 5 days ago. Thanks Ronni!

Cultural exchanges

Apparently last weekends Age/Australian had travel feature on 'real' exchange rather than just observation; plenty of opportunity for that in this small community. 

Ian-initiated Men's shed? production line for bamboo amplifiers. P.S. 7 sold/ordered after market research on the beach this morning!

 Showing little ones that old white ladies (moi?, surely not!) aren't scary

Managing a small conversation with locals going about their daily chores, in indoglish on both sides.....

Ian having pool fun with a crowd of kids

Lipah 22-27

Another coastal paradise, this time one of a string of fishing villages on the east coast, relatively quiet, that we've been visiting for many years. We rarely see another Australian here, but lots of Europeans and an occasional American. That might change with a beautiful new 5* resort perched on the hill, which is sure to win awards of some sort. We sponsor a girl here, and it's wonderful to return each year and catch up with the family. Mum Made and dad Joni are feeding us well with gluten free breakfasts and spicy fresh fish dinners!

Last of Ubud June 13-15

We visit another amazing bamboo structure - the Green School, set up also by John Hardy when he wanted good education for his kids, as you do...  Check it out on TED or google

John Hardy: My green school dream 

Photos of course don't do it justice, but what a place to educate your children!

We are treated to an amazing meal of smoked duck and chicken, with all the delicious Balinese trimmings, by Heathers mate Made, who also  gives us each a henna tattoo. 

And how could I forget? We walk to the "Eat, Pray, Love" house which is just across the rice paddy from where Heather is living, but don't bother visiting Ketut or Wayan, tho both are easy to find!

Candidasa June 15-22

We love this village by the sea. Lots of relaxing by the pool, good beach for swimming when the tide is out a bit, and magnificent jungle for trekking in. The food - of course - is great, with many small places to choose from as well as bigger ones with some western choices (not for us!) 

We bring Lisa (my 19 year old Balinese friend from John Hardy) with us for the weekend, and she loves the chance to eat burgers, apple pie and ice cream! 

Our favourite Nasi Ikan Laut, rice with fish and all sorts of hot and flavourful sides. 

Local kids give a welcome dance for a great West Australia- based charity, http://www.caroliacharity.com/

View from our balcony

Trekking

No Japanese cow (tractor) used here, it's too steep, inaccessible and expensive. 

More photos:

The resident frog

Animal, vegetable or mineral?

Bicycle basket shop

Smile....

Bath time

And again...

We love Ubud. The ducks woke me this morning; they follow their owner's flag to the rice paddies each day, where they quack and gobble up snails and bugs, and fertilise the fields ready for the next crop.

Yesterday we sampled how the other half live. One of the girls I met at the orphanage last year was offered an apprenticeship and we are invited to visit.  John Hardy is a famous jewellery designer and has built a huge factory complex in Bali, complete with an immense organic garden where food is grown for the 600+ employees lunches. His jewellery is seriously expensive, and includes a beautiful jug that we can purchase as a souvenir. At over $5000 we pass, regretfully. We pop into his hotel - Bambu Indah - made of ancient Javanese joglos, and have juice at Five Elements Spa and wellness retreat,with stunning bamboo buildings,  where we are seriously tempted to move in. Beautiful.  

Ubud still

Tuesday we met our friends Ann and Don from Torquay, for a day's cycling. We've had several trips with Baik Bike Bali over the years, and its always good for another outing. A coffee plantation sets us up for the day, with many tastings of flavoured teas and coffees, plus delicious dark chocolate for energy. Our mainly downhill ride has us hooting and grinning and calling to the many kids we pass. We stop for water and bananas, a rice growing lesson and the chance to pat a spider. Yes, it's big and tickles!

A fantastic buffet Balinese lunch tops it all off. 

Ubud, Bali

All we can hear right now is the gurgle of water rushing along the channels (it poured this afternoon) and the croaking of frogs. It's pleasantly cool where we are, at Ian's sister Heather's house just north of Ubud, in amongst the rice paddies. There's a variety of bugs and frogs inside, and huge snails, hundreds of ducks and lots more outside. 

We're eating good food, have heard some amazing live music, commenced a course of acupuncture for our various maladies, and are generally having a soft start in this beautiful country, which seems very familiar. Ubud is home for two weeks, after our first night on the beach at Sanur.